Leather button for oars. Several pieces of leather were cut into rectangles the longest edge being just under the width of the oarloom, and each of the 4 or 5 pieces of leather just smaller than the one below.
Placed on top of each other they were laid on a block of wood on the workbench and galvanised usually 2 inch nails were driven through.
A chizel was used to go down the sides of the leathers and even them up and the four corners were bevelled.
The button was then prised off the block of wood. The button was turned upside down on the vice hich was closed to just the width of the nail heads. The nails were then knocked back out until flush with the bottom piece of leather.
Removed from vice the button was then laid in place on the back of the oar and nailed on. They were a good form of button but over time the oar ould rot away at the nails and the loom snap.
Leather button wrapped round loom of oar
Metal rowlock/gate. Must have had a top pin at sometime for closure. For use over back pin which would have been bolted onto the riger. I (George Parsonage) have never used this type of rowlock/gate.
Pin rowlocks. We did not use these very much. We really just tried then and then laid them aside. The problem was that they required what amounted to a large u bolt through the oar where the button would normally be. The u part of the bolt projecting out the back of the oar had to slide over the pin. The bolts being larger, were more prone to rot the oarloom than the galvanised nails of the buttons. They were good in that they prevented the oars slipping out of the rowlocks if you let go. A problem was that you could not pull half the oar in if rowing alongside something in the water.
This was a pin type rowlock on a flat plate which was bolted onto the gunnal of the boat. This of course meant they were permenant, you could not lift them out., which was no use if you were lifting something into the boat.
Plastic rowlock on pin for sweep rowing. Pin unscrewed and lifted ou to put oar into rowlock the was screwed up again holding oar in place. Used for many years in racing craft. Height was easily adjusted using washers.
Alloy riggers madre by Norwegian Vidar Brenden in his final year in Engineering at Strathclyde University. Vidar was himself a rower and sculler. The special rigger and gate allowed for each adjustment of the gate to be made without affecting the other adjustments which ws a freat problem at this time. Rigers and gates developped fast at this period.
Metal rowllock/gate on pin. Open tapered top which meant that the oar ws placed into the rowlock at the narrowest part of the tapered loom, and pushed out. The held the oar fairly well in place. Used a lot in hiring boats.
Metal thole pins for jollyboat with lead inserts. The lead wore away to suit the sweep rowers movements of the oar. Heavy and wore away quickly. I (George Parsonage) never rowed with lead inserts.
Various types of metal rowlocks which were bolted onto the boats through the gunnals.
Thole pins with rope across top. Thole pins were bolted onto jollyboat type racing boats. The oarblade was pushed right out of the boat then the handle was brought in through the thole pins and under the string. The button was at an angle that allowed you to twist it through the pins. Very complicated button system but very effective.
Various types of brass rowlocks used with pins bolted onto the gunnals of the boats.
Flats plates with holes for the rowlock to go through which were bolted onto the gunnals of boats for use with normal rowing boat rowocks. Dissadvantage was that the gunnals were prone to rot where the bolts went through the wood.
Two stay rigger with plate allowing span adjustment and washers on pin allowing height adjustment.
4 stay tubular steel riggers which bo;ted onto the sculling boat.
4 stay steel rigers which bolted onto sculling boat. Did allow some adjustment fore and aft.
5 stay rigger. The back stay gave extra strength. No fore or aft adjustment, only height.
Type of alloy button for sweep racing oarblade. This one has the closing/holding bolts at fron and back. In most buttons of this type the bolts were at the sides. There was a piece of leather mounted on the underside to make the rowing movement smoother.
Brass rowlock which would be mounted on a pin bolted onto the gunnal of the boat or rigger. Excellent rowlock for small rowing craft. Though for our boats we really required rowlocks that could easily be lifted in and out.
Brass back plate for Jollyboat racing oar. Very complecated system. This plate went below the leather sleeve on the oar in which there was a hole to allow the raised threaded piece visible in photo to go through. The btton was scrwed onto the plate by a bolt going into the hole.
Brass outer rings that were both screwed onto the leather buttons of racing oars but also onto the looms of the oarblades.
Assorted brass gates for racing crft, sculling boats and sweep.
Sculling boat rowlocks/gates with curved back pins. This type had what was called male fittings, with the top and bottom male extensions of the gates fitting in to the holes top one in the curved back pin and bottom one in a hole in the rigger. Quite reliable so long as the back pin was screwed tightly onto the rigger (often they came loose). Not terribly good for adjusting pitch. The back curved pin had a square extention at the bottom, that went into a square hole on the rigger to prevent turning.
Brass rowlocks/gates with male pins and curved back pins bolted onto riggers.
Early types of brass gates/rowlocks with male extensions. Strange types of top pins. I never saw this type in use, so cannot tell any more about them..
Brass open topped rowlocks with male extensions top and bottom with curved back pins. Bolted onto flat plate then onto gunnal of boat as shown. Mostly for pleasure and hiring boats. I (George Parsonage) used this type of rowlock in what we called punts, small single rowing boats built by Ben Parsonage. Very effective.
Another type of brass rowlock/gate, but no back pin. Rowlock bolted directly onto gunnal of boat. Not as strong without the back pin.
Brass rowlocks/gates with female attachments with curved back pins. The top of the rowlock/gate was held by a bolt/screw through a hole in the top of the curved back pin. the bottom was held in place by a nipple on a plate on the rigger. Fine as long as you checked the bottom bolt and top screw, was screwed up tight before every outing.
Leathers of a curved button for a jollboat oarblade.
Broken Jollyboat thole pin. Shows how the pins were polted onto the side of the Jollyboat.